This year’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia was a spectacular visual feast, with an eclectic array of eye-popping prints, bold colours and structured silhouettes all standing out on the runway. Here are the key trends that emerged this year:
‘Print-Blocking’ and Graphic Prints
Just as colour-blocking emerged as last summer’s defining trend, what I’ve christened ‘print-blocking’ looks set to do the same. Mismatched graphic print combos created spectacular runway looks, while digital prints were paired with stripes, spots and florals to create eclectic, eye-catching looks.
Romance Was Born
Manning Cartell
Sara Phillips
Dylan Cooper
Bold Colours, Acid Brights and Citrus Tones
One thing the Aussies definitely do well is colour. In contrast to the muted and dark palette we often see at New Zealand Fashion Week, the runway at MBFWA was awash with a rainbow of bold, bright colours, acid bright shades of orange and pink and citrus tones of yellow, orange and mandarin; often contrasted by sweet pastel shades of blue, lavender and pink.
Talulah
An Ode to No One
Gail Sorronda
Ginger & Smart
Florals
Girly floral fabrics and prints were another notable recurring theme at many shows, setting a ladylike standard for the season to come.
Whitney Eve
Bec & Bridge
Zimmermann
Peplum
This striking silhouette featured heavily on the international runways last season, and has filtered down to the southern hemisphere and looks set to be an overwhelming trend for summer ‘12/’13.
Maticevski
Alice McCall
Bowie *image credit Getty Images
Metallics
In contrast to the proliferation of sugary pastel tones and florals, striking metallic shades also stood out on the runway.
Ellery
Johanna Johnson *image credit Getty Images
Bless’ed are the Meek *image credit stylehunter.com
Strong Shoulders
Exaggerated, structured shoulders created a strong and unusual silhouette in many collections.
Carl Kapp
Ginger and Smart
By Natalie CosgroveAll other images courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia
Designers:
New Generation 1Jenny KeeWe are HandsomeAJEThe InnovatorsRoopa PemmarajuAustralian Fashion Laureate ShowCarl KappChristopher Esber
Celebs on site:
NZ-born supermodel, Kylie Bax
Show highlights:
Much-loved iconic Australian designer, Jenny Kee, was back with an installation, 21 years after her last solo show. Transforming a small space inside Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal (aka Fashion Week HQ) into a lush tropical forest, Kee presented clothes styled by Romance Was Born’s Anna Plunket and Luke Sales, characterised by a riot of colour, layers and texture. Kee also dipped into her vast fashion archives to show of some past favourite looks.
A plethora of new talent also took to the runway for the first of the New Generation shows, and The Innovators show, showing that the future of the Australian fashion industry is definitely in good hands.
The Innovators show featured notable graduates from the Sydney Institute
Fashion Design Studio, whose distinguished alumnae include Alex Perry, Dion Lee and Akira. Kaylene Milner was a real standout, with stylish graphic prints, fur and flashes of neon coming together in a strangely cohesive and unique way, which totally worked.
Image credit: MBFWA
- Natalie Cosgrove
Lisa HoAlice McCallSara PhillipsBec & BridgeElleryOrotonHardwickWatson X WatsonKooey AustraliaAn Ode to No OneMen’s Collection Show
Ruby Rose in Alice McCall, front row at the showJodi Gordon front row at Alice McCallYvan Rodic, Bryan Boy, Susie Bubble and Rumi Neely all front row at Alice McCall
Alice McCall’s modern Russian dolls bringing her SS12 collection, Babooshka, to life on the runway. Aside from the slightly unpleasant ear raping courtesy of the Kate Bush song of the same name on the soundtrack, this was one of my favourite shows of the week.The playful collection, finding inspiration from Hungarian folk art, showed off a rainbow palette of brights and pastels, from soft lavender and blue to citrus shades of yellow, orange and tangerine. The Hungarian influence was also seen in the range of silhouettes, including apron necklines, lampshade skirts, sundresses and playsuit-style onesies. A stunning wave cut out neckline was a highlight, as well as an asymmetrical interpretation of this season’s biggest silhouette, the peplum skirt.
Photography: Merceds-Benz Fashion Week Australia
Ellery’s highly anticipated show proved to be one of the more popular of the week, and her SS12 collection, Delicatessen, was a tight, structural range featuring sharp shoulders and high necklines, staying true to the designer’s signature aesthetic.The clothes were defined by a futuristic edge, and featured a more pared back colour palette than a lot of what we’ve seen this week, and a refreshing lack of florals, giving way for metallic silver shades with flashes of red and green.
ZimmermannMaticevskiFlowers for a VagabondTalulahMichael Lo SordoToi et MoiSong for the MuteBy JohnnyMagdalena VelevksaJohanna JohnsonJayson BrunsdonBowie
More Lara BingleSusie BubbleElin KingPrince Harry
Highlight:
Johanna Johnson’s gorgeously luxe gowns taking centre stage in the Mercedes-Benz presents show. The Kiwi born, Australian-claimed designer joins a prestigious international list of past winners, including Carolina Herrera, Monique Lhullier, Badgley Mischka and Narcisco Rodriguez.
Johnson’s aptly titled ‘Luxor’ collection for SS 2012 is a decadent mix of flowing ball gowns with plunging backs and necklines, featuring metallics, feathers and elaborate diamante headbands, as well as distinct twenties nuances and tougher contrasts of leather and lace.
Johanna Johnson
Veterans Zimmermann’s collection featured the feminine, girly aesthetic the label has become renowned for, with lashings of florals and sheer fabrics, and of course their signature covet-worthy swimwear.
Zimmermann Swimwear
Jayson Brunsdon’s installation showcasing his SS12 collection, The Lady is a Tramp, which the designer says is “about the loss of control, falling in love, romance, passion and sensuality.” Brunsdon’s decadent, ultra-feminine, sultry designs have a dark edge that differentiates them from the bright colour palettes many Australian designers favour.
Jayson Brunsdon's 'The Lady is a Tramp' SS12 collection
All images courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia
Article by Natalie Cosgrove
Romance Was BornLisa MareeGail SorrondaGary BigeniKirrily JohnstonCamillaDylan CooperMiss UnkonManning CartellAurelio CostarellaWhitney Eve and We by Whitney PortKsubiGinger and Smart
Celebs on Site:
Whitney PortLara Bingle (trailed by cameras filming footage for her “highly anticipated” new reality show, Being Lara Bingle)Sophie Lowe
The Ksubi after party at the Flinders Hotel where free drinks and beautiful people were plentiful, and being lucky enough to witness a sweet rendition of Elton John’s Rocket Man, karaoke style, by this very cool fellow.
Image source: Pedestrian.tv
Getting papped at Ksubi. Image source: Oyster
Show Highlights:
Day one of MBFWA kicked off with a bang (or should I say kapow!) with Romance was Born’s highly anticipated collaboration with Marvel comics. Sexy flame-haired superheroes graced the runway showing off RWB’s signature neonbrights, and bold colours which offset eye-catching graphic prints. The most striking thing about the collection is that wearability has not been sacrificed for the sake of creativity and daring; without a doubt, this is definitely a commercially viable collection.
Image source: MBFWA
A few other shows generating buzz on day one were Manning Cartell, who converted an old church into a runway and showed a stunning collection inspired by Frida Kahlo, with lots of embellishments, digital prints and many of the symbols Kahlo’s work was famed for like, fruit, flowers and birds; and Aurelio Costarella, whose collection paid tribute to the twenties with intricate beading and twenties silhouettes, offset by amazing pom pom head dresses.
Manning Cartell. Image source: MBFWA
Aurelio Costarella. Image source: MBFWA
And of course, Whitney Port of The Hills fame showcased her uber-girly collection, which featured lots of sweet, sherbet tones of yellow, pink and blue.
Like New Zealand, Australia is renowned for its plethora of young design talent, and several of these emerging designers will present at group collection shows at MBFWA next week.
Katie Pratt, the creative brains behind Elliatt, a label that has enjoyed a rapid rise since its inception in late 2010, is one such talent. Elliatt’s signature design aesthetic combines sophisticated, sexy glamour with luxe fabrics, bold silhouettes and statement prints, and the label’s 2012 transeasonal collection, as seen below, demonstrates this eclectic fusion of prints, fabrics and sharply executed design.
Elliatt’s bold selection of 12 upbeat 60s-inspired summer looks are sure to be a stand-out in next Thursday’s New Generation show at MBFWA, with an assortment of playful mod shift dresses, seductive lace and textured fusions, on-trend bright and printed separates set to be shown off on the catwalk.
With a vision to provide fashion-forward, quality investment pieces at a more accessible price point, Elliatt is definitely one to watch, and while not yet stocked in NZ, there’s definitely a market for it across the ditch, so hopefully the collection makes its way to our shores soon.
Coachella. If you’re not there, then chances are you’re whingeing via social media about why you’re not, while talking about the Tupac hologram and the #totesamaze line-up, or perhaps THIS little Instagram of Rihanna being very, very naughty.Having garnered a cult following as one of the biggest and best music festivals in the world, Coachella is also rapidly building a reputation for throwing out some pretty serious sartorial statements.“Festie fashion” is a trend that we probably owe almost entirely to Kate Moss’s signature grungy denim cut offs/gum boots look she wears at Glastonbury every year, but it has evolved into somewhat of a full-blown trend, as evidenced by the festival fashion style guides in countless magazines, and via online retail giants Topshop and ASOS.A few common threads at the first weekend of Coachella this year include a distinctly contemporary fifties look, such as vintage sun dresses, cat’s eye glasses and bustiers teamed with denim cut offs, as well as neons, crop tops, denim shorts, the usual hippie garb and a whole lot of desert boots. Here are a few highlights:
Modern pin up. Image credit: Harpersbazaar.com
Diane Kruger in desert boots. Image credit: Vogue.com
Hippie chic in Blessed are the Meek dress. Image credit: refinery29.com
Scout Willis in a 50’s silhouette. Image credit: Style.com
Vanessa Hudgens in denim cut offs Image credit: Elleuk.com
Cat’s eye sunglasses with pink cut offs. Image credit: Harpersbazaar.com
The countdown is on to the biggest industry event on the Australian fashion calendar, the newly-anointed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia. As usual, the event promises to bring together some of the biggest names in the industry, showcasing their SS 12/13 collections to the fashion pack, industry buyers, press and bloggers amidst spectacular waterside environs in Sydney.
Despite the conspicuous lack of New Zealand talent this year, and the shock eleventh-hour withdrawal of big names Dion Lee and Josh Goot (sad face); who are both citing the need to focus on other core activities of their respective brands, there’s still plenty to be excited about.
The visual fashion feast kicks off with some much-loved favourites in Australian fashion on Monday 30 April starting with the always popular Romance was Born, before Kirrily Johnston, Manning Cartell, Ksubi and Ginger & Smart, celebrating their ten-year anniversary, showcase their collections on the runway.
Monday night also sees the Whitney Eve show, something that even the biggest fashion snobs are gagging to see, even if they don’t like to admit it. Known for her fun, flirty and eclectic designs, and of course her starring role on The Hills and The City, Whitney’s first down under appearance is generating a lot of buzz.
Tuesday’s highlights include cult label Zimmermann’s show. The label always impresses with its slick production and vibrant, sexy clothes. I’m also looking forward to Song for the Mute’s show on Tuesday – I was in attendance at last year at L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival when the label won the 2011 LMFF Designer Award, and while I’m not usually hugely interested in men’s fashion, this label’s slick, contemporary take on menswear is quite intriguing.
Bridal and couture designer Johanna Johnson, who hails from Christchurch, will also be presenting a collection on Tuesday evening in an Australian first. Johnson’s designs are favoured by celebs including Meryl Streep, Emily Blunt and Christina Hendricks, so this will be an exciting show.
Wednesday sees more big name Aussies take to the runway, including Lisa Ho, Alice McCall (one of my personal favourites) and Bec & Bridge. Oroton’s Australian runway debut, under the well-heeled directorship of style icon and Marie Claire US Accessories Director, Taylor Tomasi Hill, is also on Wednesday and is generating a lot of buzz amongst the local press.
Thursday is all about emerging design talent, with New Generation and The Innovators shows promising shades of brilliance. A lot of newbie labels are also debuting at fashion week this year, including the much-hyped Watson X Watson, Dylan Cooper, nANA jUDY, Toi et Moi Sydney, and An Ode to No One.
The week closes with an international flair, with the Raffles International Showcase, which features Asian designers such as Akaya Ichikawa from Japan. The honour of closing the week is bestowed upon Fernando Frisoni, who’s a bit of a Sydney icon, having headed up an “Urban Style” street style page in the Sun Herald newspaper for eight years, before launching his own label in 2008.
As a newbie to the Australian fashion circuit, I’m curious to see how our friends across the ditch pull off their annual industry event, compared to how we do it in New Zealand. Having emailed what feels like about a billion PR contacts to request invites to the shows, now all there is left to do is sit back and wait for the invites to (hopefully) roll in. Fingers crossed.
Dunedin is renowned as a birthplace for some of New Zealand’s top fashion talent and creative minds, and emerging jewellery designer Holly Simpson-Howe is no exception. In just six months, she has gone from strength to strength, releasing her debut collection ‘Out of the Blocks’, followed by her second collection, ‘shadowplay’, dropping in stores now.Drawing on inspirations from the world around her, and bringing them to life in distinct stirling silver creations, Holly Howe is definitely one talent to watch. I interviewed Holly to find out a little more about her and her new collection.
What do you love most about what you do?The freedom to do what I like and to experiment, and being the boss and not having to answer to anyone.
Tell us a little bit about your background, and how you have gotten to where you are today?I am a qualified product designer, I graduated from Otago Polytechnic in 2009. I have always been creative and knew that I wanted to do something in this industry. While I completed my degree, designing and making jewellery actually never crossed my mind, let alone turning that into a business.After I graduated I was at a bit of a loss so I thought I would take a few papers in Jewellery and Metal Smithing at the Dunedin School of Art. From there, my business has evolved organically and now I am just releasing my second collection, ‘shadowplay’. I have only been in business since September 2011, and I now stock in 14 stores in New Zealand and Australia..
What inspires you, in your work and daily life?Like most designers (I imagine) I am inspired by my surroundings, including my inner city studio that I share with three of the most amazing NZ jewellers. My partner is a product designer and works in an architectural firm, so I also take a lot of inspiration from architecture and him of course!
I love to keep up to date with what other designers are doing and what is out there, as I think it’s really important to set yourself apart from other labels in order to get noticed, especially when there is so much talent in New Zealand.
Take us through the process it takes to conceive of, and then create a collection?I don’t stick to any strict guidelines or anything like that. For my first collection, I was really inspired by roof lines and geometry so started out drawing and finding interesting shapes within architecture. Once I have a concept in mind, I then start researching designers and architects that are doing similar things. I start drawing out concepts and then I go straight into making pieces in wax, it goes back and forth until I get the proportions and the design right.
What are the inspirations behind your latest collection, ‘shadowplay’?There is still a very heavy reference to geometric shapes in this collection. I wanted to continue on with similar themes, but add more detail within the pieces. When designing ‘shadowplay’, I tried to keep in mind how light would reflect off certain surfaces to cast shadows and how it could add depth to the piece. I also looked into geometric forms in nature, such as crystal structures and rocks.
Everything I research in the lead up to design adds to the end result, even if it doesn’t look like it has a direct connection.
What materials do you use when you create your collections?I start making the prototypes out of anything from blue tack to femo as really quick ways of getting ideas set in stone. Then I move onto sculpting in hard carving wax. Then my work gets cast in stirling silver, ready for me to sand back and polish.
Who are your favourite New Zealand designers, jewellery or fashion?As I said before there is so much talent in New Zealand that it is so hard to pick just a few. In terms of fashion I love Nyne and Nom D. In terms of jewellery, I really look up to established brands like Meadowlark, and I hope in the next five years I am as well known as they are.
Do you have a favourite personal piece of jewellery?I wish I had more fingers! I wear my Pyramid Ring from my “Out of the Blocks” collection, and have added my Stud Ring and 3 Peaks Pendant from “shadowplay” (Not to forget rings given to me from my partner).
What kind of jewellery in your opinion is enduring, and never goes out of style?Chunky sterling silver rings never go out of style, but I would say that!
‘shadowplay’ is in stores now.
Holly Howe Collections is stocked at the following stores:
Angel Divine, Queenstown.Guilty As Sin, Napier.Belle Bird, Dunedin.Salisbury Boutique, Dunedin.DEAD SET, Christchurch.Wonder Room, Wanaka.Trouble and Fox, Nelson.The Good Room, Mt Maunganui.The White Room, Hamilton.Needles and Treads, Ponsonby, Auckland.Struth, Wellington.White Willow Fashion, Balclutha.
SHOP ONLINE:
Idiom Boutique: www.idiomboutique.co.nz/HOLLY_HOWEGuilty As Sin: www.guiltyassin.bigcartel.com/product/holly-howe-facet-ringThe Good Room: www.thegoodroom.co.nz/Needles and Threads: www.needlesandthreads.co.nz/
AUSTRALIA:
Black Anchor Collective, Brisbane.
Like Holly Howe Collections on Facebook
NZFD has a solid sterling silver Facet Ring from Holly’s Out of the Blocks collection worth $166 to give away to one reader! Enter the competition here >>
Holly Howe 'shadowplay' Collection
The always highly-anticipated Oscars red carpet never disappoints, with plenty of high-fashion glamour and general all-round shockers to keep most fashion watchers entertained. Black, white and red were key colours on the carpet, and embellishments and a focus on the waist were stand out trends. Here are my picks for the best and worst dressed of this year’s event:
Best Dressed
Gwyneth Paltrow in Tom Ford
My favourite look of the night, Gwyneth does minimalism at its complete and utter best. The gown fits beautifully, and the unique, dramatic cape detailing elevates this look to the next level.
Rooney Mara in Givenchy
This structured Givenchy couture gown will probably polarise fashion commentators, but I really like it. While Rooney has arguably played it safe this awards season by sticking to one style, and perhaps has let her character from The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo dictate her fashion choices, I like her clean, modern style. Her hair and makeup is perfect too.
Milla Jovovich in Elie Saab
White was definitely a huge trend on the carpet, and Milla looks the picture of elegance in this sparkly one-shoulder Elie Saab dress. A very Oscar-worthy look.
Michelle Williams in Louis Vuitton
Coral is not a colour seen often on the red carpet, and Michelle’s dress makes for a refreshing change with its elegant detailing and bright, punchy colour. Michelle Williams is another celeb who tends to divide the fashion pack, but I have long been a fan of her quirky fashion choices. And she has some of the best hair in Hollywood.
Jessica Chastain in Alexander McQueen
Jessica Chastain has emerged not only as the latest it-girl actress, but also as one to watch with her inspired fashion choices. This dramatic gown, designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, perfectly captures the glamour the evening requires. I always love McQueen.
Worst Dressed
Stacey Keibler in Marchesa
Horrific. Just because it’s the Oscars, doesn’t mean you have to dress like one. Step aside so we can swoon over George in peace.
Natalie Portman in Vintage Dior
Ok I’m going to say it. I realise this dress is vintage 1952 Dior and all, so no disrespect, but it is a polka dot prom dress, and it’s really boring. Also, I’m not a fan of her hair. I think Nat’s lost her fashion mojo.
Jennifer Lopez in Zuhair Murad
She has an amazing body, but the overall look is rather tacky. Plus, no points for originality, I feel like Jen has been doing this same look on the red carpet for years, complete with signature high bun and bronze makeup.
Shailene Woodley in Valentino Couture
This is one of those “fashun” dresses that looks great on the runway, but just doesn’t translate on a red carpet. At 20, the look is far too old and severe for her.
Penelope Cruz in Armani
Yawn. She always wears the same thing, the colour is bland, and the clutch is too matchy-matchy. While she looks polished, for me, this look is lacking any kind of originality or wow factor.
The latest collection from cult Kiwi shoe label Chaos & Harmony, ‘Common Confessions’, is an eclectic mix of elegant pumps, geometrically influenced wedges and structured boots.
According to Chaos & Harmony designer Beks Anderson, the collection“embodies the concept of objects of desires”. In other words, these are some seriously covetable shoes.
The collection captures the label’s signature aesthetic vision: eye-catching, expressive shoes, and the usual strong wearability combined with elements of the unexpected the label has become known for.
The winter collection was inspired by the art deco movement, as seen in the modern styling, sweeping curves, strong angular shapes and the solid block heels.
A few of my favourites include ‘York’, very cool stacked Mary Janes, the contrasting black and white ‘Jackie’ and ‘Fuller’ – definitely a must-have ankle boot for this winter’s wardrobe.
Chaos & Harmony AW'12 'Common Confessions' collection
Probably due to Hollywood’s ever-increasing obsession with youth and beauty comes the slightly uncomfortable but also intriguing rise of the teen (or pre-teen) it girl, or what Grazia Magazine has appropriately coined, the ‘chadult’.
It seems everywhere you look these young ingénues (aka children-who-look-like-adults-and-often-better-than-me) are gracing the red carpet, hardly ever putting a Gucci-clad foot wrong, and winning rave reviews from style bibles including Elle and Vogue.
It’s completely unjust that these 14 year olds look like stunning, graceful swans at an age when most of us were spotty-faced, still in braces and carrying puppy fat. Yet at the same time, is it wrong I find myself looking to them for style inspiration?
With big name designers like Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs scrabbling to get them to front their campaigns directed at adult women, it’s probably no wonder.
All that aside, and not forgetting the fact that they’ve all got top stylists working day and night to disguise any teenaged awkwardness that might accidentally slip out, and as weird as it is given I’m 10 years older than most of them, these girls are fast on their way to becoming fashion icons.
Here are my favourite annoying yet beautiful little fashion plates (sorry Willow Smith, but you don’t make the cut):
Chloe Grace Moretz
Despite the fact that she’s not even 15 yet, this young actress has got talent, attitude and style, and is becoming quite the dab-hand at mastering classic, ladylike style.
Elle Fanning
Not going to lie, kind of obsessed with Elle Fanning’s whimsical, yet age-appropriatestyle. She’s definitely got more panache than Dakota, choosing bold, quirky pieces and looking a lot cooler than a 13 year old ever should.
Hailee Steinfeld
Hailee is the face of the controversial Miu Miu AW ’11 campaign, which was eventually banned for being ‘obscene’ and apparently encouraging teens to put themselves in ‘dangerous situations’ (see the image of Hailee sitting on the railway tracks, crying below).As a side note, Hailee was eventually replaced by a model 20 years her senior (i.e. 34). Weird juxtaposition.
Aside from that though, she has rather enviable red carpet style, including this knockout colourful Prada dress she wore at last year’s Golden Globes.
Hot off the back of her much buzzed-about NZFW show, Kathryn Wilson debuted her A/W 12 collection to a select group of Australian media in an intimate, candlelit setting at Tokonama, a sushi bar in the ultra-hip Sydney suburb of Surry Hills.
Having felt extremely left out watching all the NZFW action from afar from my new home in Sydney, the event was a welcome opportunity to catch up with Kathryn and to view the gorgeous collection first hand.The range certainly carries Kathryn’s signature, contemporary luxe-style, with standout pieces for me including the fierce, sexy stiletto boot, the edgy zebra-print ‘shooties’ and the selection of cute flats, particularly the very on-trend ‘smoking-slipper’ style flats.
Kathryn’s collections are always infused with a sense of fun, a distinct creative flair and a sexy edge, and the winter ’12 range is certainly no exception. Kathryn has enjoyed huge success as a designer in New Zealand, and has become one of the country’s most celebrated designers.
While Wilson has been stocking in selected Australian boutiques for five years, her current success combined with the buzz from her pioneering NZFW public show provides the perfect storm for Kathryn to emulate her home-grown success in the Australian fashion market.
Wilson’s operations manager, Julia Ford says, now is the perfect time to be increasing Kathryn’s presence across the ditch, speaking to the right buyers and media, and giving them a taste of what was presented to the Kiwi fashion scene.
And with shoes as covetable as these, Wilson will no doubt continue to build her reputation as one to watch by Australian media, buyers and shoe-lovers alike.And with nothing but praise heard at the event from neighbouring Sydney media, I’m sure Kathryn’s success will only continue as she builds her brand here in Australia.
