This year’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia was a spectacular visual feast, with an eclectic array of eye-popping prints, bold colours and structured silhouettes all standing out on the runway. Here are the key trends that emerged this year:
‘Print-Blocking’ and Graphic Prints
Just as colour-blocking emerged as last summer’s defining trend, what I’ve christened ‘print-blocking’ looks set to do the same. Mismatched graphic print combos created spectacular runway looks, while digital prints were paired with stripes, spots and florals to create eclectic, eye-catching looks.
Romance Was Born Read more ...
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Designers:
New Generation 1Jenny KeeWe are HandsomeAJEThe InnovatorsRoopa PemmarajuAustralian Fashion Laureate ShowCarl KappChristopher Esber
Celebs on site:
NZ-born supermodel, Kylie Bax
Show highlights:
Much-loved iconic Australian designer, Jenny Kee, was back with an installation, 21 years after her last solo show. Transforming a small space inside Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal (aka Fashion Week HQ) into a lush tropical forest, Kee presented clothes styled by Romance Was Born’s Anna Plunket and Luke Sales, characterised by a riot of colour, layers and texture. Kee also dipped into her vast fashion archives to show of some past favourite looks.
A plethora of new talent also took to the runway for the first of the New Generation shows, and The Innovators show, showing that the future of the Australian fashion industry is definitely in good hands.
The Innovators show featured notable graduates from the Sydney Institute
Fashion Design Studio, whose distinguished alumnae include Alex Perry, Dion Lee and Akira. Kaylene Milner was a real standout, with stylish graphic prints, fur and flashes of neon coming together in a strangely cohesive and unique way, which totally worked.
Image credit: MBFWA
- Natalie Cosgrove
Lisa HoAlice McCallSara PhillipsBec & BridgeElleryOrotonHardwickWatson X WatsonKooey AustraliaAn Ode to No OneMen’s Collection Show
Ruby Rose in Alice McCall, front row at the showJodi Gordon front row at Alice McCallYvan Rodic, Bryan Boy, Susie Bubble and Rumi Neely all front row at Alice McCall
Alice McCall’s modern Russian dolls bringing her SS12 collection, Babooshka, to life on the runway. Aside from the slightly unpleasant ear raping courtesy of the Kate Bush song of the same name on the soundtrack, this was one of my favourite shows of the week.The playful collection, finding inspiration from Hungarian folk art, showed off a rainbow palette of brights and pastels, from soft lavender and blue to citrus shades of yellow, orange and tangerine. The Hungarian influence was also seen in the range of silhouettes, including apron necklines, lampshade skirts, sundresses and playsuit-style onesies. A stunning wave cut out neckline was a highlight, as well as an asymmetrical interpretation of this season’s biggest silhouette, the peplum skirt.
Photography: Merceds-Benz Fashion Week Australia
Ellery’s highly anticipated show proved to be one of the more popular of the week, and her SS12 collection, Delicatessen, was a tight, structural range featuring sharp shoulders and high necklines, staying true to the designer’s signature aesthetic.The clothes were defined by a futuristic edge, and featured a more pared back colour palette than a lot of what we’ve seen this week, and a refreshing lack of florals, giving way for metallic silver shades with flashes of red and green.
ZimmermannMaticevskiFlowers for a VagabondTalulahMichael Lo SordoToi et MoiSong for the MuteBy JohnnyMagdalena VelevksaJohanna JohnsonJayson BrunsdonBowie
More Lara BingleSusie BubbleElin KingPrince Harry
Highlight:
Johanna Johnson’s gorgeously luxe gowns taking centre stage in the Mercedes-Benz presents show. The Kiwi born, Australian-claimed designer joins a prestigious international list of past winners, including Carolina Herrera, Monique Lhullier, Badgley Mischka and Narcisco Rodriguez.
Johnson’s aptly titled ‘Luxor’ collection for SS 2012 is a decadent mix of flowing ball gowns with plunging backs and necklines, featuring metallics, feathers and elaborate diamante headbands, as well as distinct twenties nuances and tougher contrasts of leather and lace.
Johanna Johnson
Veterans Zimmermann’s collection featured the feminine, girly aesthetic the label has become renowned for, with lashings of florals and sheer fabrics, and of course their signature covet-worthy swimwear.
Zimmermann Swimwear
Zimmermann
Jayson Brunsdon’s installation showcasing his SS12 collection, The Lady is a Tramp, which the designer says is “about the loss of control, falling in love, romance, passion and sensuality.” Brunsdon’s decadent, ultra-feminine, sultry designs have a dark edge that differentiates them from the bright colour palettes many Australian designers favour.
Jayson Brunsdon's 'The Lady is a Tramp' SS12 collection
All images courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia
Article by Natalie Cosgrove
Romance Was BornLisa MareeGail SorrondaGary BigeniKirrily JohnstonCamillaDylan CooperMiss UnkonManning CartellAurelio CostarellaWhitney Eve and We by Whitney PortKsubiGinger and Smart
Celebs on Site:
Whitney PortLara Bingle (trailed by cameras filming footage for her “highly anticipated” new reality show, Being Lara Bingle)Sophie Lowe
The Ksubi after party at the Flinders Hotel where free drinks and beautiful people were plentiful, and being lucky enough to witness a sweet rendition of Elton John’s Rocket Man, karaoke style, by this very cool fellow.
Image source: Pedestrian.tv
Getting papped at Ksubi. Image source: Oyster
Show Highlights:
Day one of MBFWA kicked off with a bang (or should I say kapow!) with Romance was Born’s highly anticipated collaboration with Marvel comics. Sexy flame-haired superheroes graced the runway showing off RWB’s signature neonbrights, and bold colours which offset eye-catching graphic prints. The most striking thing about the collection is that wearability has not been sacrificed for the sake of creativity and daring; without a doubt, this is definitely a commercially viable collection.
Image source: MBFWA
A few other shows generating buzz on day one were Manning Cartell, who converted an old church into a runway and showed a stunning collection inspired by Frida Kahlo, with lots of embellishments, digital prints and many of the symbols Kahlo’s work was famed for like, fruit, flowers and birds; and Aurelio Costarella, whose collection paid tribute to the twenties with intricate beading and twenties silhouettes, offset by amazing pom pom head dresses.
Manning Cartell. Image source: MBFWA
Aurelio Costarella. Image source: MBFWA
And of course, Whitney Port of The Hills fame showcased her uber-girly collection, which featured lots of sweet, sherbet tones of yellow, pink and blue.
Like New Zealand, Australia is renowned for its plethora of young design talent, and several of these emerging designers will present at group collection shows at MBFWA next week.
Katie Pratt, the creative brains behind Elliatt, a label that has enjoyed a rapid rise since its inception in late 2010, is one such talent. Elliatt’s signature design aesthetic combines sophisticated, sexy glamour with luxe fabrics, bold silhouettes and statement prints, and the label’s 2012 transeasonal collection, as seen below, demonstrates this eclectic fusion of prints, fabrics and sharply executed design.
Elliatt’s bold selection of 12 upbeat 60s-inspired summer looks are sure to be a stand-out in next Thursday’s New Generation show at MBFWA, with an assortment of playful mod shift dresses, seductive lace and textured fusions, on-trend bright and printed separates set to be shown off on the catwalk.
With a vision to provide fashion-forward, quality investment pieces at a more accessible price point, Elliatt is definitely one to watch, and while not yet stocked in NZ, there’s definitely a market for it across the ditch, so hopefully the collection makes its way to our shores soon.
Coachella. If you’re not there, then chances are you’re whingeing via social media about why you’re not, while talking about the Tupac hologram and the #totesamaze line-up, or perhaps THIS little Instagram of Rihanna being very, very naughty.Having garnered a cult following as one of the biggest and best music festivals in the world, Coachella is also rapidly building a reputation for throwing out some pretty serious sartorial statements.“Festie fashion” is a trend that we probably owe almost entirely to Kate Moss’s signature grungy denim cut offs/gum boots look she wears at Glastonbury every year, but it has evolved into somewhat of a full-blown trend, as evidenced by the festival fashion style guides in countless magazines, and via online retail giants Topshop and ASOS.A few common threads at the first weekend of Coachella this year include a distinctly contemporary fifties look, such as vintage sun dresses, cat’s eye glasses and bustiers teamed with denim cut offs, as well as neons, crop tops, denim shorts, the usual hippie garb and a whole lot of desert boots. Here are a few highlights:
Modern pin up. Image credit: Harpersbazaar.com Read more ...
The countdown is on to the biggest industry event on the Australian fashion calendar, the newly-anointed Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia. As usual, the event promises to bring together some of the biggest names in the industry, showcasing their SS 12/13 collections to the fashion pack, industry buyers, press and bloggers amidst spectacular waterside environs in Sydney.
Despite the conspicuous lack of New Zealand talent this year, and the shock eleventh-hour withdrawal of big names Dion Lee and Josh Goot (sad face); who are both citing the need to focus on other core activities of their respective brands, there’s still plenty to be excited about.
The visual fashion feast kicks off with some much-loved favourites in Australian fashion on Monday 30 April starting with the always popular Romance was Born, before Kirrily Johnston, Manning Cartell, Ksubi and Ginger & Smart, celebrating their ten-year anniversary, showcase their collections on the runway.
Dunedin is renowned as a birthplace for some of New Zealand’s top fashion talent and creative minds, and emerging jewellery designer Holly Simpson-Howe is no exception. In just six months, she has gone from strength to strength, releasing her debut collection ‘Out of the Blocks’, followed by her second collection, ‘shadowplay’, dropping in stores now.Drawing on inspirations from the world around her, and bringing them to life in distinct stirling silver creations, Holly Howe is definitely one talent to watch. I interviewed Holly to find out a little more about her and her new collection.
What do you love most about what you do?The freedom to do what I like and to experiment, and being the boss and not having to answer to anyone.
Tell us a little bit about your background, and how you have gotten to where you are today?I am a qualified product designer, I graduated from Otago Polytechnic in 2009. I have always been creative and knew that I wanted to do something in this industry. While I completed my degree, designing and making jewellery actually never crossed my mind, let alone turning that into a business.After I graduated I was at a bit of a loss so I thought I would take a few papers in Jewellery and Metal Smithing at the Dunedin School of Art. From there, my business has evolved organically and now I am just releasing my second collection, ‘shadowplay’. I have only been in business since September 2011, and I now stock in 14 stores in New Zealand and Australia..
The always highly-anticipated Oscars red carpet never disappoints, with plenty of high-fashion glamour and general all-round shockers to keep most fashion watchers entertained. Black, white and red were key colours on the carpet, and embellishments and a focus on the waist were stand out trends. Here are my picks for the best and worst dressed of this year’s event:
Best Dressed
Gwyneth Paltrow in Tom Ford Read more ...
The latest collection from cult Kiwi shoe label Chaos & Harmony, ‘Common Confessions’, is an eclectic mix of elegant pumps, geometrically influenced wedges and structured boots.
According to Chaos & Harmony designer Beks Anderson, the collection“embodies the concept of objects of desires”. In other words, these are some seriously covetable shoes.
The collection captures the label’s signature aesthetic vision: eye-catching, expressive shoes, and the usual strong wearability combined with elements of the unexpected the label has become known for.
The winter collection was inspired by the art deco movement, as seen in the modern styling, sweeping curves, strong angular shapes and the solid block heels.
A few of my favourites include ‘York’, very cool stacked Mary Janes, the contrasting black and white ‘Jackie’ and ‘Fuller’ – definitely a must-have ankle boot for this winter’s wardrobe.
Chaos & Harmony AW'12 'Common Confessions' collection
Probably due to Hollywood’s ever-increasing obsession with youth and beauty comes the slightly uncomfortable but also intriguing rise of the teen (or pre-teen) it girl, or what Grazia Magazine has appropriately coined, the ‘chadult’.
It seems everywhere you look these young ingénues (aka children-who-look-like-adults-and-often-better-than-me) are gracing the red carpet, hardly ever putting a Gucci-clad foot wrong, and winning rave reviews from style bibles including Elle and Vogue.
It’s completely unjust that these 14 year olds look like stunning, graceful swans at an age when most of us were spotty-faced, still in braces and carrying puppy fat. Yet at the same time, is it wrong I find myself looking to them for style inspiration?
With big name designers like Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs scrabbling to get them to front their campaigns directed at adult women, it’s probably no wonder.
All that aside, and not forgetting the fact that they’ve all got top stylists working day and night to disguise any teenaged awkwardness that might accidentally slip out, and as weird as it is given I’m 10 years older than most of them, these girls are fast on their way to becoming fashion icons.
Here are my favourite annoying yet beautiful little fashion plates (sorry Willow Smith, but you don’t make the cut):
Chloe Grace Moretz
Despite the fact that she’s not even 15 yet, this young actress has got talent, attitude and style, and is becoming quite the dab-hand at mastering classic, ladylike style.
Elle Fanning
Not going to lie, kind of obsessed with Elle Fanning’s whimsical, yet age-appropriatestyle. She’s definitely got more panache than Dakota, choosing bold, quirky pieces and looking a lot cooler than a 13 year old ever should.
Hailee Steinfeld
Hailee is the face of the controversial Miu Miu AW ’11 campaign, which was eventually banned for being ‘obscene’ and apparently encouraging teens to put themselves in ‘dangerous situations’ (see the image of Hailee sitting on the railway tracks, crying below).As a side note, Hailee was eventually replaced by a model 20 years her senior (i.e. 34). Weird juxtaposition.
Aside from that though, she has rather enviable red carpet style, including this knockout colourful Prada dress she wore at last year’s Golden Globes.
Hot off the back of her much buzzed-about NZFW show, Kathryn Wilson debuted her A/W 12 collection to a select group of Australian media in an intimate, candlelit setting at Tokonama, a sushi bar in the ultra-hip Sydney suburb of Surry Hills.
